Rinjani National Park at a Glance

This article is made for Norwegian Student of Agder, Norway, doing research on Rinjani National Park in February 2009.
By: Emilianus Yakob Sese Tolo

I. Introduction

The park covers an area of 41,330 ha on the northern part of Lombok and locates the three administrative district of West, East and Central Lombok. The area covers 12,357.67 ha in the west, 22,152.88 ha in the east and 6,819.45 ha in central Lombok. Rinjani dominates the National Park of Lombok, an island east of Bali on the Indonesian archipelago. At 3726m it is the second highest volcano in Indonesia, part of the infamous ring of fire that encircles the basin of the Pacific. Within the crater is the spectacular Segara Anak lake and the still – active volcano Gunung Baru (2,363m).

It is surrounded by further 66,000 ha of Protection Forest also covers the three administrative districts. The park ecosystem is in the transitional zone between Asia and Australia (Walaceae zone). Average rainfall is about 3,000mm annually.

Gunung Rinjani is rich in variety of flora and fauna and vegetation types. There are 114 families and more than 500 several of floras found and about 50 species of plant that can be used for traditional medicine. While fauna in Gunung Rinjani is about 12 mammal and reptile species, more than 50 birds’ species and more 50 several of butterflies which some are protected and has limited area of spread. On the South Western side of mountain is the most eastern extent of primary rainforest in Nusa Tenggara. This gives way to monsoon forest and drier climate in the east, and savannah in the north east. Notable flora includes the everlasting edelweiss flower (Anaphalis viscida), tiger orchid (Vanda sp) alang-alang grass (Imperata cylindrical), cemara tress (Casuarina trifolia and Casuarina ocidentale).

Gunung Rinjani, one of the over 50 National Parks through out Indonesia and 21 become National Park model included Gunung Rinjani National Park, it was established in 1997. It is valued and protected for its spiritual as well natural values, and is worshipped by thousands of Balinese as well as Sasak pilgrims. Hot springs near the Crater Lake are sought after for their healing powers.

Over 38 villages spread out in 12 sub-districts surround Rinjani and there are many routes up to the mountain, but the main access is from Sembalun Lawang to the East. The challenging three-day Rinjani Trek route from Senaru to crater rim (Pelawangan), down to the stunning crater lake then on to Sembalun Lawang, is considered one of the best treks in South East Asia. Those heading for the summit usually prefer to start in Sembalun Lawang.

The village of Senaru is the main gateway to Mt. Rinjani National Park, the most popular start point for the three day Rinjani Trek up Indonesia’s second highest volcanic peak (3,762 m). For the people of Lombok, Sasak and Balinese alike, the volcano is revered as a sacred place and the abode of Gods. Within the spectacular crater, the Segara Anak Lake is destination of many pilgrims who place offerings in nearby hot spring.

A model for ecotourism in Indonesia, the community-based activities are focused on the Rinjani Trek Centre in Senaru and Rinjani Information Centre in Sembalun Lawang, the most popular starting points for the tough trek. Developed with New Zealand Government assistance since 1999, the Rinjani Trek Centre and Rinjani Information Centre embody under one roof (satu atap) the unique partnership of the National Park, tourism industry and local communities that has been forged to manage and protect the Rinjani mountain environment. The programme has been successful and in 2004, the Rinjani Trek won the 2004 Destination Stewardship Award for “the tourism destination that best demonstrates effective protection its natural and cultural environment.”

II. Rinjani National Park

2.1. History of Rinjani National Park

At first on 12 March 1941, Rinjani National Park was declared by Governor of Netherlands government as wildlife preservation area based on the SK (decision letter), No.15 Staatblaat, and No 77 on 12th March 1941. Then it was announced by a letter of Forestry Minister No. 48/Menhut-VI/1990.
At the third anniversary day of Natural Conservation in Mataram,NTB, Rinjani National Park was declared as a Nationala Park based on the SK of Forestry department No.280/Kpts-VI/1997 on 23rd May 1997 with its size ±41.330 ha locates in three districts in Lombok Island. And the system of conservation is based on SK of Forestry Minister No.185/Kpts/97 on 27th May 1997. The name of the office is Unit Taman Nasional Gunung RInjani. But, in 2002 the name of the office was changed to be Balai Taman Nasional Gunung Rinjani and Tata Kerja Balai Taman Nasional Gunung Rinjani.

According to SK of Forestry Minister, The conservation of Rinjani National Park is divided into 2 in charge office of the park.
1. Conservation I is in West Lombok
This office organizes the Park which located in West Lombok district. The size of the park belongs to this office is ± 12.357,67 Ha (30%) in which divided into 3 offices and several guardian offices.
2. Conservation II is in East Lombok

This office organizes the Park which is located in 2 districts. The size of the park belongs to this office is ± 22.152,88 Ha (53%) in East Lombok district and ± 6.819,45 Ha (17%) in Middle Lombok district.

According to the SK of Direktorat Jenderal forest and natural conservation No SK 99/IV/Set-3/2005 on 26th September 2005 regarding the zone of Rinjani National Park, the Park was divided into several zones, namely:
1. Central zone : 20.842,50 Ha
2. Jungle Zone : 17.349,50 Ha
3. Using Zone : 700,00 Ha
a) intensive using zone : 390,00 Ha
b) special using zone : 401,00 Ha
-cultural special using zone : 75, 00 Ha
-tourism special using zone : 326, 00 Ha
4. Other Zone : 2.338,00 Ha
5. Traditional using zone : 583, 00 Ha
6. Rehabilitation zone : 1.755,00 Ha

2.2. What You Might See in Rinjani National Park

2.1.1. Flora and Fauna Resources

Over 20 villages surround Mt. Rinjani and there are many routes up the mountain, but the main access is from Senaru in the north and Sembalun Lawang to the east. Gunung Rinjani national park lies within the major transition zone (Wallace) where the flora and fauna of south East Asia makes a dramatic transition into that which is typical of Australia. The park has a rich variety of plants and animals, like I already said before at the introduction, although they can be hard to spot due to the terrain and rainforest cover.

Sometimes seen early in the morning is the morning is the rare black Ebony leaf monkey, know locally as lutung. The long tailed gray macaque of kera is common in Lombok and order males are seen on the crater rim. Rusa deer are forest dwellers and are occasionally seen a long the Rinjani trek train.

The smaller barking deer or kijang has an alarm call with a distinct dog - like bark. Look for the disturbed ground where the wild pig or babi hutan has been foraging. Also found in the forest is the leopard cat or bodok alas, palm civet or ujat and porcupine or landak.

A variety of colorful birds live in the forest of the park. Perhaps the best – know icon of the park is the crested cockatoo that is not found any further west of Lombok. Many of the forest-dwelling animals, insects, birds, civets, and monkeys owe their survival to the wild fig tree or beringin as a provider of food and shelter.

The pine-like casuarinas species, Cemara, are a feature of the grassy higher slopes. Orchids or anggrek are also a feature of the grassland areas, as is edelweiss or bunga abadi growing above the tree line, it is a beautiful icon of the park and one of the park and one of our best-know sub-alvine plants.

2.1.2. Rinjani National Park as a Beautiful Place for Mountain Climber

Rinjani National Park provides nice view to be seen. But, the Park is famous for mountain climber. Even the path to the top is really challenging, but almost everyday locals, domestic and foreigner tourists come here for doing trek to the top of the mountain. But, for climbing the Rinjani Mountain, each year, during the wet season the trekking activities are is closed from December to March because it is quite dangerous. The path is really slippery and dangerous for the safety of the climbers.

There are some places for resting and enjoying the view before reaching the top of the mountain:

Bunut Ngengkang
The first place to rest, located where the paths from Senaru and Semokan meet. Here is a Banyan tree with a wide space on the lower part, which looks like a person standing up with legs apart. That is why it is called Bunut Ngengkang. Andongan Tambing is one of the forest entry gates and the First Camp on the Rinjani Trek. At this point the trekkers are warned to be careful of the steep slopes.

Half Way Point (Pos II Campsite)
At the second resting place (Camp II) is a stone which is called Batu Penyesalan. This marks the place where the trekkers feels a conflict about whether to continue or to turn back because we still have as far to go to our destination as we have already walked. Usually it takes about two hours to walk here from Bunut Ngengkang.

Caves
One of the three famous caves (Goa Susu, Goa Payung, dan Goa Manik), Susu Cave is a good place for self reflection and is often used as a place to meditate. The people with unclean and envious mind will have difficulty entering Susu cave which has a narrow entrance, but people with noble and pure mind will easily enter the cave.
Inside the cave water drips from the tip of a stone which looks like a nipple, so people say the water in Goa Susu tastes different. Inside Goa Susu is hot and there is a lot of smoke which looks like cooking steam so people call this Mengukus (hot house) and sometimes people call it Rontgen (X-Ray).

Healing Hot Springs
Aiq Kalak means hot water and it is used to cure various diseases. One of the hot springs is named Pangkereman Jembangan which is meant a place for dipping. The water which spurts out of the spring is very hot. Weapons such as keris, swords, big knives, and lances are dipped in the spring to test their magic power. If the weapon becomes sticky it means that the weapon is bad and has no magical power. However if the weapon remain unchanged it means that the weapon has supernatural power and the power and the strength will be increased.
People also use the hot spring to make medicine from coconut cream. After dipping a bottle of coconut cream in the hot spring if the liquid becomes clear oily it can be used as medicinal oil. Then the medicinal oil is used for good things and is called Siu Satus Tunggal or in Bayan language Siu Satunggal which means that it can be used to cure a thousand kinds of disease.

Segara Anak Crater Lake

Segara Anak Lake is so wide it appears like the sea with its blue water. The name Segara Anak means child of the sea. Segara Anak Lake holds various mysteries and invisible power. People feel content to stay a long time in this place because of the large community of mysterious spirits which live around the lake.

The local people believe that if the lake looks wide when seen at a distance it is a sign they will live to an old age; or if the lake seems narrow it is a sign of a short age. So in order not to be pessimistic, people quickly purify themselves by lifting up their spirits and calm soul and look at the lake contentedly.

In the area of the lake it is forbidden to have sexual intercourse, to complain or say dirty things. We must be patient when facing problems.

Local Strawberry
This plant grows along the route to Mt. Rinjani. It has thorns like the rose and the fruit is red like strawberry. It has a sweet and slightly sour taste and is good to eat when trekkers are hungry and thirsty.

Eternal Flower or Edelweis
The plant or the flowers should not be taken because it grows in the park and in the mysterious world of the spirit kingdom. In the past, someone who wanted this flower must be brave enough to fight and gamble his soul. That is why the flower is called Sandar Nyawa. The flower has never wilted and is as old as the mysterious spirits.

The Peak of Rinjani
The people of Lombok believe that the peak of Mt. Rinjani is where Dewi Anjani, the queen spirit and ruler of Mt. Rinjani lives. To the south-east from the peak in a sea of dust called Segara Muncar is the invisible palace of the queen Dewi Anjani and her followers. They are good spirits. According to a story about the Queen Spirit Dewi Anjani she was the daugther of a King who would not allow her to marry her boyfriend. At a spring called Mandala she dissappeared and changed from the real world to the spirit world.

Mount Baru Jari (Gunung Baru)
Gunung Baru is the name of the new volcano which emerged in the center of Segara Anak Lake. People believe that Gunung Baru is the navel of Mt. Rinjani. That is why if Gunung Baru erupted it will not harm the people of Lombok unless the eruption is from the peak of Mt. Rinjani. Some people said that the 1994 Gunung Baru eruption was caused by siprits who were building something because the stones that erupted were arranged in an orderly and attractive way at the foot of Gunung Baru.

2.1.3. Sanaru Village: Its Natural and Cultural Resources
As said before that the village of Senaru is the main entrance to Gunung Rinjani National Park, the most popular start point for the trek to Indonesia’s second highest peak (3,726 m). Within the spectacular crater, the lake Segara Anak is the destination of many pilgrims who place offerings in the water and bathe away disease in the nearby hot springs.

The cool, flower – filled mountain village of Senaru on the slopes of Mt. Rinjani stretches up a hill side spur along a winding rood above Bayan. It is a scenic 2, 5 hours drive from Mataram or Senggigi to Senaru. The desa includes the hamlets of Senaru, Batu Koq and Tumpang Sari, and all over accommodations in simple but pretty home stays (losmen) with lovely views.

National park and village entry fees are paid here. Village guides, including several local women, have been specially trained to escort visitors around the sights. Arrange a guided excursion through Lombok Network Outdoor & Adventure.

Waterfall

Senaru’s best known attraction is the Sendang Gila waterfall which attracts many thousands of Indonesian and foreign visitors annually.

Located at about 600m above sea level, the waterfall is an easy 20 minute walk down a graded trail and steps from Senaru Village, a pleasant alternative return route winds along the edge of the steep valley, following the irrigation canal.

For the more adventurous, Senaru’s “second waterfall” Tiu Kelep is another hour’s walk upriver from Sendang Gila. The scramble over rocks through the tropical forest is rewarded by the beauty of the waterfall and a swim in its deep pool. It is said locally that every time you swim behind the main waterfall of Tiu Kelep you become a year younger!

With access from the main road, Senaru’s “third waterfall” Betara Lenjang is a true rainforest adventure strictly for rock climbers with local guide and equipment.

Wildlife
During early morning and evening walks in Senaru you are likely to see interesting birds, butterflies and at least one of the two species of monkey who live in the surrounding forest. Long tail macaques, known locally as kera, often seat on the road. More elusive is the rare Silvered Leaf monkey, and also known as the black monkey or lutung, which can often be glimpsed in the forest around the waterfalls.

Senaru Traditional Village
A visit to the Senaru Traditional Village, situated next to Rinjani Trek Center where the Rinjani trail begins, is greatly enhanced by asking a local guide to show you around. The Sasak inhabitants are the cultural guardians of Mount Rinjani and its surrounding forest and safeguard its spiritual values. Locally guided visits include opportunities to experience the villager’s daily life, visit their thatched houses and gardens of fruits and spices.

For a romantic highlight, ask to be shown the “sunset view” where you may see the tropical sun setting against the distant skyline of Bali.

Cultural Performances
By special request in advance, the people of Senaru and Sembalun can treat you to the very special spectacle of their traditional music and dance performances in a village setting beneath Mt. Rinjani.

2.2. Rinjani Trek Information

Rinjani Trek Centre: The Centre is located at the trailhead above Senaru traditional village and Rinjani Information Centre located at Sembalun Lawang village. They offer information and displays for visitors on the trek, the National Park, Sasak culture and a range of activities available in Senaru.

Displays include maps, Park interpretation, village walks and environmental guidelines. All trek arrangements can be made here, cultural tours booked and purchases made of local produce and handicrafts.

Park Fees: Fees are paid at the Rinjani Trek Centre. They contribute to the protection, maintenance and management of the National Park, Rinjani Trek route, village attractions and visitor facilities.

Guides and Porters: Trained and licensed guides and porters are available. You will need three days and two nights to trek from Senaru via the spectacular crater lake, to Sembalun Lawang (or the other way). More time will be needed to explore the summit of Mt. Rinjani.

All trek arrangements can be made and paid for at the Rinjani Trek Centre. If not with a guide, please ensure you are well equipped and have knowledge of mountain safety.

Warnings: The Rinjani Trek is a challenging mountain walk and you must be prepared with good equipment, warm and windproof clothing. Rinjani can attract severe storms, lightening and strong winds. When the weather is settled, the sun is intense and the nights frosty. Parts of the trail are steep and slippery. Beware of bad weather and risks of exposure to the wet and cold (hypothermia). If caught in an electrical storm, take shelter and avoid prominent ridges. Beware of snakes, and stinging insects and plants. Leeches can be a nuisance in the wet season.

Volcanic Hazards: Although Mt. Rinjani has not erupted in recorded history, Mt. Baru (2,363m) in the crater lake is an active volcano. It last erupted dramatically in 1994. Check the notice boards for recent hazards, and take advice from park staff and guides.

Spring Water: Fresh water springs are a feature of the trek and determine campsites. Your guide knows where these are. During the drier months (July-September) some springs completely disappear. Park staff and guides constantly monitor these water sources to determine their abundance. Communications: You are advised to ensure that your guide is carrying a radio handset or mobile phone. Radios are available for rent at the Rinjani Trek Centre. In case of emergency the National Park authorities are also equipped with radio communications.

2.3 .Non-Trekking Options Round Rinjani Drive

This 10 hour day trip circuit drive around Mt. Rinjani passes through Rinjani National Park, and includes beautiful landscapes and many highlights of north and mid Lombok. The scenic route climbs across mountain passes with roadside monkeys, and you can stretch your legs for a half hour walk to the popular local cultural attraction, the healing hot spring at Sebau deep in the forest. Optional stops include colorful local markets; several traditional villages visits, the ancient 16th century bamboo mosque at Bayan, the Balinese Narmada summer palace, and visits to the Rinjani gateway villages of Senaru and Sembalun Lawang.

Sembalun Lawang is set in an ancient and fertile caldera to the east of Mt. Rinjani, the preferred access route for summiteers. The rich soil produces high quality market garden crops, including the famous garlic and rice, staple of local farmers. Seismic activity is monitored daily at the government Rinjani Volcanology Centre.

The beautiful valley of Sembalun is also known for its hill walks, recently restored traditional village, active cultural performers and local weavers.

Some home stay (losmen) accommodation is available and trek services are based at the Park’s Rinjani Information Centre. Also enquire about the local walks: the Sembalun Lawang Village Walk, to experience the scenic beauty of the village or/and the Sembalun Wildflowers Walk, a two day one night hike to see the wildflowers at Propok in Gunung Rinjani National Park.


III. Management of Rinjani National Park

3.1. Local Government, Foreign Institution, and Local People

Local government really concerns with the existence of the park. Local people have good relationship with locals. And by good relationship, they can manage the park well. The Park got several awards. It is a proof of good management of the Park. Local people also get benefit of the Park by get 5 percent of Park income. Also, they can easily get the job by being mountain guide and so on. Local people also can run business on tourism potentiality like building simple cottage, performing cultural dancing, selling handicrafts and local souvenirs.


The Park is also organized by a foreign institution from New Zealand. There was New Zealand Government assistance since 1999, the Rinjani Trek Centers embody under one roof (satu atap) the unique partnership of the National Park, tourism industry and local communities that has been forged to manage and protect the Rinjani mountain environment. During the period of the New Zealand Government assistance, the Rinjani Trek Management Board (RTMB) was formed and continues the program of Rinjani Trek Ecotourism Programme.


3.2. Entrance Fee



You can see above entrance fee of the park. But from the other data said that fees are paid at the Rinjani Trek Center at Rp. 60,000/person/entry or 75,000/person/entry. They contribute to the protection, maintenance and management of the national park, rinjani trek route, village attractions and visitor facilities. And according to Eco Tourism Concept, they will give as much as benefit to the local community to improve their standard of living. 5% from the net income is donated to support education for the poor children in isolated villages.



IV. Conclusion

Rinjani National park is really famous in Indonesia even in the world. Local government also admits this fact. That is why; they really concern with its existence. They provide good equipment for the visitors. And of course, they also ask a high entrance fee for maintaining well the park from time to time.

And it is nice to be known that the management of the park is included the local. Even there is also some problem inside the park regarding the illegal logging. But, so far, the management of the park is quite good compare to the other National Park overall Indonesia. And because of this reason, this park is nice to be researched so as to get right information and right solution for its problem.
This place is also nice to be a research field work because while researching the researcher could enjoy its fantastic scenery. It is so beautiful. If you do not believe at me, you can prove it by yourself during the field work.

Before you come to Indonesia, I would like to write some cultural tips for you. Hopefully, it is useful for you during doing field work in Indonesia.

CULTURAL TIPS DO's
Smile and greet people, especially elders.
Shake hands, gently.
Accept hospitality and food. You do not have to eat and drink, but it is polite to ACCEPT.
Say goodbye and thank you when you leave.
Dress modestly. Women should keep upper arms and thighs covered.
Bend down and walk around seated people when you need to pass.
Use only your right hand to eat and to hand objects or money to someone.
Be sure to sit at the same level as other people.
Wear a sarong when entering the house of Melokaq (Adat leader) and when participating in ritual and adat ceremonies.

DON'T's
Enter houses, building or village without being invited.
Wear shoes inside a house.
Don’t Point at people with your finger.
Don’t ever use your foot to point at objects or people.
Point the bottom of your feet directly at people whilst sitting on the floor.
Touch anyone’s head.
Step over people or food on the floor.
Eat with your left hand, or use your left hand to give or accept objects or money.
Raise your voice, especially in anger.


I want to put also the some addresses of there National Parks in Indonesia which you can ask about some information before coming to, and after being in Indonesia.

It is for Rinjani National Park

BOOKING INFORMATION
PT. Lombok Network Holidays
Jl. Intermilan 87 Puri Meninting Lombok Indonesia
Tel: +62 370 662 8139, Fax: +62 370 634 162, Mobile/SMS: +62 81 8369619
Email: adventure@lombok-network.com
MEMBER OF ASITA (ASSOCIATION OF INDONESIA TRAVEL AGENT)
NIA: ASITA/III/IX/DPD-NTB/200

It is for Kelimutu National Park
Alamat : Jl. Gatot Subroto No. 33
Ende 86317, Nusa Tenggara Timur
Telp. (0381) 21754
It is for Komodo National Park
Kantor : Jl. Kasimo, Labuan Bajo
Flores Barat 86554, Nusa Tenggara Timur
Telp. (0385) 41004, 41005
Fax. (0385) 41006
E-mail: tnkomodo@indosat.net.id

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